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But her vibrant “Iris” dress drew the most attention, thanks in part to a hidden message at its core: Neatly camouflaged in the middle of the dress was an embroidered portrait of Munir Ahmed, one of Mishra’s tailors, at work on a sewing machine

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That’s without even mentioning the exit from the industry of Phoebe Philo – arguably the contemporary figurehead of female womenswear designers – leaving a void for women making things that other women want to buy

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